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If you have ever dipped your toe in the sea of hair care knowledge there are probably a few things you have noticed:
1. A lot of people are talking about what's good and what's bad for your hair, whether they are a professional or a scientist or not. This causes a lot of mixed information out there.
2. Most hair information is always targeted towards a specific hair type.
3. We should stay away from alcohols, sulfates, and silicones.
When it comes to what is good/bad for your hair please, please don't turn to just anybody for this information. Turn to scientists, turn to haircare experts, but not the random person who is claiming a baking soda bath, followed by an apple cider vinegar rinse on your hair is the best thing for you. On the surface they seem like they know what they are talking about, but taking care of your hair is an intricate balance of knowledge. I like to use the baking soda, apple cider vinegar "hack" as my example for 2 reasons: 1.) it is trending so lots of people have heard of it/have used this "hack" before, 2.) it is based off of SOME truth, but those facts are not applied realistically. So, let's break it down. In the hack they want you to apply baking soda to the hair either before you shampoo, or you mix it into your shampoo. Then do an apple cider vinegar diluted with water rinse afterwards. The facts here are that baking soda is alkaline. This will cause the hair cuticle to lift, and provide a really deep, thorough clean. The apple cider vinegar and water mix you follow up with is acidic and will then close the cuticle and prevent tangles, add shine, and it has some anti-fungal properties that can actually help cure dandruff related issues caused from fungal infections on the scalp. Either of these things will certainly achieve particular goals, but there are some problems. Baking soda shampoos should only be used in extreme circumstances because using this more than once in a blue moon will most certainly cause dry hair and scalp, and even just using it once if your hair is already damaged could be dangerous because repeated lifting of the hair cuticle causes damage and over time the cuticle won't be able to close properly again. An improperly closed cuticle means frizz, tangles, dull hair, and breakage. Apple cider vinegar is very acidic and as opposed to the baking soda will shut down the cuticle, but applying vinegar to your hair instead of conditioner doesn't add moisture to your hair, and in fact can even prevent leave-ins or conditioners from entering the hair because the cuticle is shut down so tight. Over time this will also cause dryness, and could prevent treatments and color being effective leaving you with dry, disappointing hair. The rollercoaster of pH your hair experiences here could be disastrous for the structural integrity of your hair. (for more information on pH and what you should look for to achieve your healthiest hair, see the blog "Achieve the Healthiest State of Hair").
While hair may look, and feel different, at the end of the day it is all hair. If you want to take the best care of your hair you want to look for products that are specifically for color-treated and/or curly hair. This is because these products are usually a more ideal pH that is best suited for your hair it is often low-sulfate or sulfate free, and often has water-soluble silicones. These things aren't just good for curly or color treated hair! These are things that you want no matter what type of hair you have.
When tackling ingredient lists you should take into consideration that things like sulfates, silicones, and alcohols serve a purpose. If your hair is thin and fine, you likely want to opt for a low-sulfate shampoo as opposed to a sulfate free shampoo. This is because the sulfates will allow you to achieve a deeper clean. Sulfates are a great cleaning agent in the hair, however the struggle with them is that they don't discriminate, and they will pull out your product build up, and excess oil on the scalp, but they may also pull out color, glazes, treatments, and multi-wash products. So, while we often don't encourage sulfates in our shampoos, we do know that sometimes we spent the whole summer at the beach or in the pool, and we need a deep clean, or we have extra oily scalps, and no color in our hair so sulfate in our shampoo does more good than harm. Especially professional products that are using higher grade surfactants, and therefore using less of them.
Silicones and alcohols are a huge topic these days, and we must admit we understand. Non-water-soluble silicones can leave a waxy residue on the hair that makes the hair look dull, and feel heavy. And, a product full of alcohol makes our hair feel awful when we comb through it, but there are versions of both of these ingredients that are actually very, very beneficial to the hair, and the key is not over doing either of them. Why look for the good ones instead of avoiding all together? For alcohols, the good alcohols like cetyl, cetearyl, stearyl, and laurayl are naturally found, fattier alcohols. They actually help hydrate the hair, and help the hair dry quicker without stripping the hair of its moisture. For silicones, they actually go on and coat the hair adding loads of shine, aids in detangling, and frizz prevention to start, and what you want to look for is water-soluble silicones. This means that when you wash your hair the water breaks down the silicones preventing the dull sheen and weight of product build up.
Often times ingredients such as these are only really talked about in communities such as the curly girls, and occasionally the color treated hair life, but the thing is product build up, dry hair caused by alcohols, sulfates stripping too much oil from the scalp these problems plague ALL types of hair, and for some reason companies out there are really missing the mark on educating their entire client base. As a professional in the hair industry I dream of the day that every product I purchase clearly states that it only uses water-soluble silicones, and natural, fatty alcohols. But, until then it is our job to arm ourselves with the knowledge of our hair, and I'm going to attach a couple resources below that even I use to make sure I am only putting things in/on my hair that will help it look and feel its best. And, yes these come from another company focusing on curly hair, but they are providing information that we should ALL know, and value.
As usual if you ever have any questions about how to better your hair's life please don't hesitate to contect us, and we will always do our best to give you well informed answers, or direct you to resources to help you learn about your hair better. We don't have all the answers, but together we can learn, and help each other achieve our best hair!
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